Long isolated from the rest of Sulawesi, the remote but charming town of Luwuk is now an up-and-coming tourist destination, thanks to improved air links. Set around a beautiful natural harbour, Luwuk is the biggest town on Sulawesi’s remote central peninsula, and the best jumping-off point for the fascinating Banggai islands, home to the descendants of ancient seafarers whose ties to the ocean are still very much in evidence today. As an important regional business and trading centre, Luwuk is set to gain new impetus with the opening of the country’s second largest fertilizer complex by the end of 2017. Further afield, the forest-draped golden beaches of the Togean Islands beckon, with their rich diversity of marine life and astonishing coral formations. For truly spectacular diving and jungle trekking, the volcanic island of Una-Una fits the bill perfectly.